landscape image - Humla, the Hidden Himalayas & Mt Kailash
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  • Fly to: Kathmandu, Nepal

  • Internal Transfer: 2 flights to Nepalgunj 1hr & Simikot 50mins

  • Visa required: Yes if British plus a remote access trek permit

  • Currency:Nepalese Rupee

  • Time Zone:+5hrs45mins GMT

  • Journal:click here

Day 12, 21/06/10: Humla & Limi Valley

Today we began proceedings with a rather unusual & unexpected descent. Unfortunately this was of course almost immediately followed by the customary, long uphill trudge. Today from the off my body feels absolutely shattered, I struggled to sleep last night as my feet, ankles and legs seemed to have doubled in size.

The descent to Hilsa on the Nepalese/Tibetan border was awful. Writing this now I still feel like I want to cry. The original route had been blocked meaning we had to make our descent cross-country, over loose scree, the difference being this loose scree was overhanging sheer edged ravines. If I'd had any time to think I genuinely don't think I'd have made it down, I was that scared. The stones were so loose and it was so dusty, in all honesty I can't remember ever being so concerned for my own safety.

Eventually after a very slow and tentative effort we were all down, mules included (though I've no idea how?!); if my feet and ankles weren't swollen enough before hand then they certainly were now - every part of my body ached from the tension.

So here we are...After navigating the ancient salt route, crossing high passes, deep valleys, glacial rivers and meeting numerous tribes we had now arrived at Hilsa, where Nepal meets Tibet. Thus marking the end of one journey & the beginning of our adventure(s) into Tibet's Ngari region, the last frontier.