landscape image - Humla, the Hidden Himalayas & Mt Kailash
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  • Fly to: Kathmandu, Nepal

  • Internal Transfer: 2 flights to Nepalgunj 1hr & Simikot 50mins

  • Visa required: Yes if British plus a remote access trek permit

  • Currency:Nepalese Rupee

  • Time Zone:+5hrs45mins GMT

  • Journal:click here

The Hidden Himalayas - Humla & Limi Valley

Day 1 - 10/06/10

It was really surreal to arrive at Kathmandu airport in the early morning and be met by Chhewang. I would be spending the next few nights in the Ti-Se Guest House, a beautiful hotel situated on the peripheral of Boudha.

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Day 2 - 11/06/10

Quickly popped into the office this morning to discover the Humla remote access permit had received its stamp of approval, now all that remains is the final paperwork required for our crossing into Tibet.

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Day 3 - 12/06/10

Due to the unbearable night-time heat I was up at dawn this morning and headed straight into Boudha, at least I thought it was Boudha. The scene that played out before me was like stepping into Micheal Jackson's Thriller; the Stoupa, still slightly under the fall of night was surrounded by 10's upon 10's of beggars.

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Day 4 - 13/06/10

Up at 4:30am for our morning 50min flight to Simikot. The scenery whilst in the air was stunning, from leaving the terai the landscape resembled a flat tapestry, a giant beige patchwork where the fields below appeared stitched by hand.

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Day 5 - 14/06/10

After a family breakfast of 'chang' the 5 mules & 1 horse were loaded up with supplies & equipment for the journey ahead. I can't actually believe how much stuff there is and that I've actually got my own crew.

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Day 6 - 15/06/10

Up at 5am with some rather uncomfortable stomach cramps; after a visit to the hole in the ground all was not looking good. For some reason I woke up this morning feeling quite dehydrated so it was lucky for me that there was some grape flavoured hot tang knocking about.

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Day 7 - 16/06/10

Happy Birthday me! I awoke this morning feeling much better, last night I'd mixed some re-hydration powders and this seemed to be doing the trick. With my head cleared I was now able to appreciate the scenery I'd missed yesterday.

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Day 8 - 17/06/10

Last night the tent stood up well to the torrential rain and ferocious winds; kind of reminded me of a night spent wild camping in the Lake District. Now I have unwavering faith in the Hilleberg but I wasn't too convinced the Ozark would stand up to the challenge. Miraculously though it performed exceptionally well.

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Day 9 - 18/06/10

A beautiful feeling to wake up this morning in such a prestine & expansive valley, the mornings task, as is every mornings task, a game of I-spy. I spy with my little that one of our mules back up near the pass, oh & there's another one by the nomad settlement and isn't that one down by the river...

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Day 10 - 19/06/10

I unexpectedly awoke this morning to the rather familiar call of the cukoo. As we ate breakfast a number of families from Jang (the 1st village of upper Limi) arrived to see the 'white woman'. The kids experimented with what little English they knew and once again we were asked to assist with a few medical conditions (eye, throat and back), thankfully in this instance we were actually able to help.

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Day 11 - 20/06/10

Up to cross another pass this morning which meant an initial post-breakfast climb of 1,000m. Now to do this in its own right is simple enough but that isn't really the nature of things out here, the trail went up 1,000m, down, up, down, up some more...

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Day 12 - 21/06/10

Today we began proceedings with a rather unusual & unexpected descent. Unfortunately this was of course almost immediately followed by the customary, long uphill trudge. Today from the off my body feels absolutely shattered, I struggled to sleep last night as my feet, ankles and legs seemed to have doubled in size.

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